Standing in front of the washbasin in the morning, you gaze at your skin in the mirror. Do you feel tightness and dryness after washing your face? Recently, the hot water-only face wash has become a hot topic on social networking sites.
This simple skincare method has been attracting a lot of attention, but many people have been asking, "Does it really remove dirt? Will it really remove dirt? and "Will it really remove dirt? In fact, there is a dermatological basis for hot water-only face wash, and its effectiveness varies greatly depending on the skin type and the method of practice. From a cosmetic dermatologist's point of view, this face-washing method has both advantages and disadvantages.
Here, we will provide you with the correct knowledge based on medical evidence, the best practices for your skin type, and even how to deal with possible problems in a professional and practical manner. By the time you finish reading, you will be able to determine if hot water-only face wash is right for your skin, and you will be able to aim for healthy skin the right way.
Graduated from the Faculty of Medicine, National Kumamoto University. After serving as the director of major beauty clinics in Japan, etc., he opened Aladdin Aesthetic Clinic in 2023. He is a professional in aesthetic medicine with a doctorate in anti-aging research and many years of experience. With the motto of "Toward the realization of cosmetic medicine without lies," he aims to be the "Only One" together with his patients.
What is hot water-only face wash? Mechanism and Effects from a Medical Perspective
Many of you may be puzzled by the choice to "not use a facial cleanser. For many years, we have been taught that a cleanser is necessary to remove dirt and grime.
From a dermatological perspective, however, there are aspects of hot water-only cleansing that make sense. This method, which maintains a minimum level of cleanliness while protecting the skin's natural barrier function, has the potential to be an ideal option for certain skin types. Here, we explore the essence of hot water-only face wash based on medical evidence.
Definition and basic method of hot water-only face wash
Hot water-only face washing is a method of washing the face using only lukewarm water (32-35°C), literally without any cleanser or soap. There is a scientific reason for this temperature setting.
Human sebum begins to dissolve at about 30 degrees Celsius, so using hot water at a slightly higher temperature than that gently removes excess sebum, sweat, dust, and other water-soluble dirt.
What is the difference between morning and night?
The implications of washing the face with only hot water in the morning and at night are different. The purpose of morning face washing is to lightly remove sebum and sweat secreted during sleep.
At night, on the other hand, hot water alone is insufficient in many cases, as it is necessary to remove dirt and makeup during the day. For this reason, many recommend using only hot water in the morning and a facial cleanser at night, depending on the situation.
What are the effects of hot water alone?
The greatest benefit expected from not using a cleanser is that it does not excessively remove the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) and intercellular lipids. These components are important elements that support the skin's barrier function, and surfactants in cleansers can wash away more than necessary. A hot water-only face wash is a well-balanced method of maintaining skin cleanliness while protecting these important components.
Mechanism of washing face with only hot water from the viewpoint of dermatology
The outermost layer of skin has a natural barrier called the "sebaceous film. This sebum film is a weakly acidic protective film formed by a mixture of sebum and sweat secreted from the sebaceous glands, and plays an important role in protecting the skin from external stimuli and preventing moisture evaporation. Understanding how the solubility of sebum changes with the temperature of hot water is the key to effective cleansing.
According to medical research, skin turnover (metabolism) occurs in an approximately 28-day cycle, but excessive cleansing can disrupt this cycle. Frequent use of cleansers containing surfactants has been reported to reduce the stratum corneum's ability to retain moisture, resulting in abnormal turnover. Hot water-only face washes have been noted as one way to prevent this negative cycle.
| Hot water temperature | Sebum removal rate | Effects on skin | Recommended skin type |
|---|---|---|---|
| 30 degrees Celsius or less | 10-20% | Sebum hardly comes off. | very dry skin |
| 32-35 degrees | 30-40% | Moderate sebum removal, maintenance of barrier function | Dry and sensitive skin |
| 36-38 degrees | 50-60% | Increased sebum removal rate, risk of drying | Normal/combination skin |
| More than 40 degrees | 70% or higher | Excessive sebum removal, reduced barrier function | Not recommended |
Surfactants remove dirt by mixing oil and water, but they also remove lipids necessary for the skin. Intercellular lipids such as ceramide and cholesterol, in particular, take time to recover once lost, so protecting them through daily cleansing is important for the long-term health of the skin.
Expected Benefits and Limitations
The most noticeable effect of hot water-only face wash is improved moisturizing ability due to reduced irritation to the skin. The feeling of tightness experienced by many people after washing their face is often caused by excessive lipid removal by surfactants, and switching to hot water-only face wash may relieve this discomfort. In fact, research data shows that approximately 70% of people with dry skin experienced improved skin hydration after washing their face with hot water only.
Normalization of sebum secretion is another expected effect. If too much sebum is removed by excessive cleansing, the skin may over-secrete in an attempt to compensate for the lost sebum.
This "rebound phenomenon" is a vicious cycle seen especially in oily skin. Hot water-only face wash may help to break this cycle of excessive sebum secretion and restore the original rhythm of sebum secretion.
However, there are also clear limitations to hot water-only face washing. Oily dirt and chemicals such as makeup, sunscreen, and air pollutants cannot be adequately removed with hot water alone. There are also limitations in removing dead skin cells and sebum (keratin plugs) clogging pores.
The accumulation of these contaminants can lead to dullness and pore problems, so regular exfoliation and the use of a cleanser appropriate to the situation should be considered.
Possible skin problems caused by washing face only with hot water and how to deal with them
After understanding the indications for different skin types, many of you may have concerns about what problems may occur if you actually start washing your face with only hot water.
Unfortunately, hot water-only face wash is not a panacea. Various skin problems have been reported, including keratin plugs, blackheads in pores, and in some cases, worsening of acne. However, these problems can be prevented with proper knowledge and handling methods.
Here, based on our clinical experience in cosmetic dermatology, we detail possible problems and how to deal with them.
Effect on keratin plugs and blackheads in pores
We often hear people say, "The pores on my nose have become more prominent" or "I feel like there are more keratin plugs" after continuing to wash their face with only hot water. This is due to the structural limitation of hot water-only face washing.
A keratin plug is a hardened mixture of sebum and dead keratin (keratin) in the pore, about 70% of which is keratin, a protein, and the remaining 30% is sebum. Hot water can partially dissolve sebum, but has no power to decompose keratin, which is a protein.
The main types of dirt that cannot be removed by hot water alone include the following. First, oxidized sebum is more sticky than normal sebum and cannot be sufficiently removed with 32-35°C hot water.
In addition, particulate matter such as atmospheric exhaust fumes, pollen, and PM2.5 adhere to the skin by binding with sebum, requiring physical cleansing power. Furthermore, silicones and polymers contained in sunscreen and makeup products are water-repellent, making their removal with hot water alone difficult.
Regular exfoliation is essential to the success of hot water-only face washes. Once or twice a week, an enzyme cleanser or AHA (fruit acid)-blended cleanser can be used to gently remove accumulated dead skin cells. In addition, a hydrafacial or chemical peel at a cosmetic dermatologist about once a month is a more effective exfoliation.
The key is not excessive daily care, but regular and appropriately timed exfoliation.
Impact on acne and medical opinion
The question is: "Does washing your face with just hot water improve acne?" Many dermatologists are cautious about this question. Cutibacterium acnes, the main cause of acne, multiplies using sebum as a source of nutrients. Washing the face with hot water only tends to be insufficient in removing sebum, and as a result, may encourage the growth of acne bacteria.
Medical studies have shown that acne-prone skin has a higher percentage of free fatty acids in its sebum than healthy skin, which promotes the growth of acne bacteria and inflammation. It may be difficult to effectively remove these free fatty acids with hot water alone. Furthermore, sebum clogging the pores creates an anaerobic environment, which is an ideal breeding ground for acne bacteria. This is the main reason dermatologists do not actively recommend hot water-only face washes for acne-prone skin.
However, not all acne-prone skin is inappropriate for hot water-only cleansing. In the case of adult acne caused by dryness, the dryness caused by excessive cleansing may exacerbate inflammation.
In such cases, it is effective to use only hot water face wash only in the morning and use a hypoallergenic cleanser at night. In addition, if acne medication is being used, hot water-only face wash may be incorporated only during the treatment period to prevent drug-induced dryness. The important thing is to choose a facial cleansing method that is appropriate for your individual skin condition, based on a dermatologist's diagnosis, rather than on your own judgment.
Other skin problems and countermeasures
If you continue to wash your face only with hot water, various skin problems may appear in addition to keratin plugs and acne. The most common are dull and rough skin.
This is due to the accumulation of dead skin cells on the skin surface without adequate removal. As the horny layer thickens, light reflection becomes uneven and the skin appears dull. Roughness is not only tactile, but also hinders the penetration of lotion, thereby reducing the effectiveness of skin care.
An effective way to deal with this problem is to use a steamed towel to "steam wash" your face two to three times a week. Applying a steamed towel to the face for 1 to 2 minutes before washing the face opens the pores and makes it easier to remove dirt with just hot water.
Wipe lotion can also be used after cleansing the face to gently remove remaining dirt and dead skin cells. However, wipe lotion with high alcohol content is irritating and should be avoided by those with sensitive skin.
Poor makeup application has also been reported as a side effect of hot water-only face wash. When dead skin cells and sebum remain on the skin surface, foundation does not spread evenly, causing unevenness and crumbling. To solve this problem, the use of a "primer" before makeup is effective. In addition, weekly gommage and enzyme packs to prepare the skin surface will significantly improve the makeup application.
| skin problem | cause of occurrence | approach | precautionary measures |
|---|---|---|---|
| lack of luster | Accumulation of dead skin cells, poor circulation | Enzyme face wash once a week, vitamin C serum | Regular exfoliation and massage |
| roughness | Thickening of keratin, adherence of sebum and dirt | Steam face wash, wipe-off lotion | Enhanced moisturizing, normalization of turnover |
| Pore opening | Sebum oxidation, sagging | Astringent lotion, serum with retinol | Antioxidant care, UV protection |
| make-up breakage | Sebum residual, keratin unevenness | Primer used, partial cleanser used | Sebum control in the morning |
When problems occur, consider the use of cosmetic medicine. For example, the HydraFacial treatment uses water flow and suction to remove dirt from pores, effectively removing dirt that cannot be removed by washing the face with hot water alone.
Ion delivery and electroporation are also effective in enhancing the penetration of cosmetic ingredients and improving dullness and roughness. The cosmetic dermatology department also offers regular maintenance treatment plans for those who wish to continue washing their face with only hot water.
By successfully combining care at home with care at a medical facility, it is possible to minimize the disadvantages while maximizing the benefits of hot water-only face wash.
How to practice proper hot water-only face wash
So far, we have explained in detail the mechanism of hot water-only face wash, its adaptation to different skin types, and possible problems that may occur. Now that you understand the theory, you may be asking yourself, "How do I actually do this? We are sure you may be asking yourself, "Now that I understand the theory, how do I actually do it?
In fact, the success or failure of hot water-only facial cleansing is largely determined by minor differences in practice. A difference of just a couple of degrees in temperature can dramatically change the impact on the skin. Here, based on my experience teaching at a cosmetic dermatology clinic, I will explain step-by-step the correct method of hot water-only face washing that anyone can start practicing today.
Importance of temperature control
It is no exaggeration to say that temperature control accounts for 80% of success in hot water-only face washing. The ambiguous term "lukewarm water" can cause a difference in how different people feel, and the actual temperature can vary by more than 10 degrees Celsius.
The temperature range of 32 to 35 degrees Celsius, which is considered optimal from a dermatological point of view, feels "a little cold" to the human body. Water above 38 degrees Celsius, which many people find "lukewarm," removes even the necessary sebum, which in turn causes skin problems.
The optimal temperature settings for each skin type are as follows
- 30-32°C for dry and sensitive skin
- 32-34 degrees for normal skin
- 34-36°C for combination and oily skin
However, this is only a standard and needs to be fine-tuned depending on the skin condition and physical condition of the day. During periods when the skin is sensitive, such as before menstruation or during the change of season, we recommend that you set the temperature 1 to 2 degrees lower than normal.
Detailed explanation of face washing procedure
Proper hot water-only face washing begins with hand washing. This is an often overlooked but very important step. There are many germs and dirt that adhere to the hands in daily life, and if they come in contact with the face as they are, they can cause skin problems.
There are different tips for washing different parts of the face. Starting with the T-zone (forehead and nose), which has high sebum secretion, gently massage the nose in a circular motion with the belly of the finger on the sides of the nose. Next, wash the cheeks using the entire palm of the hand, from the inside to the outside, gently stroking along the lymphatic flow. Since the skin around the eyes and mouth is thin, treat them especially gently using the belly of the ring finger.
Rinsing is the most important process in face washing. Carefulness is more important than frequency. Fill both hands with hot water and rinse by pressing the water against the face. At this time, be careful never to rub.
How to care for your face after washing
Post cleansing care is an important factor that determines the effectiveness of hot water-only face wash. First, it is recommended that a clean towel be used, preferably one specially designed for face washing.
Moisturizing within 3 minutes" is an ironclad rule that dermatologists unanimously recommend. After washing the face, the sebum film is temporarily thinned and the skin is in a state where moisture easily evaporates. By moisturizing during this "golden time," the skin's ability to retain moisture can be maximized.
Warm the lotion in the palm of your hand and then gently press it into the face. After that, use a milky lotion or cream to lock in moisture, thereby maximizing the effectiveness of hot water-only face wash.
By checking the skin condition checkpoints on a daily basis, you can determine if hot water only face wash is right for you. Check the following items 30 minutes after washing your face.
| checklist | Good condition | State of need for improvement | approach |
|---|---|---|---|
| skin feel | Moist and glutinous | Crusty, coarse | Lower temperature, enhanced moisture retention |
| sebum production | Moderate luster | Shine, stickiness | Consider using a partial cleanser |
| Pore condition | inconspicuous | Openings, darkening | Additional weekly exfoliation |
| skin-colored | Uniformity, transparency | Dullness, redness | Temperature control, friction reduction |
If the skin does not feel tight, feels moist to the touch, or has no redness or burning, all of these are clear signs that the temperature and method are appropriate. Conversely, if excessive dryness, sebum secretion, or visible pores are observed, it is necessary to adjust the temperature or review the face-washing method.
Hot water-only face wash is a wonderful way to bring out the natural beauty of the skin if practiced correctly. However, it is not suitable for everyone, and results can vary greatly depending on how it is practiced, so it is important to seek professional advice if your skin shows no improvement or worsens after two to four weeks of trying it.
summary
Hot water-only face wash can be an effective option, especially for those with dry or sensitive skin, as a way to gently remove dirt while protecting the sebum film. However, from a medical standpoint, it is not a panacea and may not be suitable for those with oily skin, those who wear a lot of makeup, or those who suffer from acne. What is important is to control the temperature appropriately, 32-35 degrees Celsius, and to be flexible in its use according to one's skin type and condition.
It is important to find the best balance by consulting with your skin: use only hot water in the morning, use a cleanser at night, or use a cleanser several times a week. If you begin to notice keratin plugs or blackheads in your pores, it may be a sign from your skin.
In such cases, we recommend that you consult a cosmetic dermatologist instead of continuing to force yourself to do so. By having a skin diagnosis by a specialist, a more scientific and effective skincare plan can be formulated. All skincare, including washing your face with just hot water, starts with "knowing your own skin. Please refer to this article to take the first step toward your own unique and beautiful skin.
At Aladdin Aesthetic Clinic, based on our many years of experience in cosmetic medicine and cosmetic dermatology and the knowledge of our doctoral degree, we provide counseling that aims to be "only one", offering the best treatment for each person we meet. We offer only the necessary treatments without any unnecessary information or suggestions.
Feel free to use our official LINE account for 24-hour counseling and reservations. Please feel free to contact us for free counseling for the first time or if you have any concerns.
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